![\"Karakoy](\"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/karakoy-galata-1-200x300.jpg\" "\\"\u0130ki")
<\/p>\n
20 y\u0131l \u00f6nceydi\u2026 Bir toplant\u0131 i\u00e7in \u0130stabul\u2019a gitmi\u015ftim. O sabah, tarihi tramvay istasyonunun kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda, Galata K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc\u2019ne do\u011fru ilerlerken, beni m\u0131knat\u0131s gibi \u00e7eken bir kalabal\u0131k vard\u0131: Per\u015fembe Pazar\u0131. O sala\u015f d\u00fckk\u00e2nlar\u0131n aras\u0131ndan sahile \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda, bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131lar\u0131n duman\u0131 ve taze bal\u0131k kokusu beni sarmalad\u0131. \u0130\u015fte oras\u0131, \u0130stanbullu olmayanlar\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda \u00e7ok da bilinen bir yer de\u011fildi.<\/p>\n
Orada, beni hemen fark eden, nas\u0131rlar\u0131 denizin haritas\u0131 olmu\u015f ya\u015fl\u0131 bir adamla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131m: R\u0131za Kaptan.<\/p>\n
Bana, -tak\u0131m elbiseli olunca yabanc\u0131 oldu\u011fum \u00e7ok belliydi- o me\u015fhur soruyu sordu: \u201cNeden kar\u015f\u0131da de\u011fil de burada?\u201d Kar\u015f\u0131 dedi\u011fi, ithal bal\u0131klar\u0131n sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131, s\u00fcsl\u00fc kay\u0131klar\u0131n oldu\u011fu Emin\u00f6n\u00fc sahiliydi.<\/p>\n
\u201cOrada taze deniz bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 sat\u0131lm\u0131yor ki,dondurulmu\u015f Norve\u00e7 palamudu sat\u0131yorlar, taze bal\u0131k bu tarafta var. O y\u00fczden buraday\u0131m.\u201d<\/p>\n
![\"Balikci](\"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/balikci-tek-300x261.jpg\" "\\"\u0130ki")
R\u0131za Kaptan, Ankara\u2019da ya\u015fay\u0131p buray\u0131 nereden bildi\u011fime hayret etti\u011finde, ona 10 y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinde buray\u0131 rastgele buldu\u011fumu anlatt\u0131m.<\/p>\n
Bal\u0131k tezgah\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131ndaki iskembelere oturup sohbete ba\u015flad\u0131k. \u00a0R\u0131za Kaptan, bana bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n felsefesini anlatt\u0131. Bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 olmak, sadece a\u011f atmak de\u011fildi: \u201cK\u0131\u015f\u0131n so\u011fukta gece uyumamak, so\u011fukta denizin i\u00e7erisinde hayat m\u00fccadelesi vermekti.\u201d \u0130lk \u00e7ocu\u011fu do\u011fdu\u011funda bile denizde, bal\u0131k av\u0131nda oldu\u011fu o ilgin\u00e7 hikayeyi anlatt\u0131. O zamanlarda, buran\u0131n esnaf\u0131 ticarile\u015fmemi\u015fti, en taze bal\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00a0burada yiyebilirdiniz.<\/p>\n
R\u0131za Kaptan\u2019\u0131n s\u00f6zleri, benim \u0130stanbul portremi \u00e7izmeye ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131: Kent, insan kokusunun her bir yerine sindi\u011fi bir yar\u0131mada.<\/p>\n
Hamallar\u0131n S\u0131rt\u0131ndaki Y\u00fck: Tarihi Yar\u0131mada\u2019n\u0131n Dram\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n R\u0131za Kaptan\u2019dan \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fim eme\u011fin bedelini, Galata K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc\u2019n\u00fc ge\u00e7ip Tarihi Yar\u0131mada\u2019n\u0131n kalbine y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmde, ba\u015fka bir bi\u00e7imde g\u00f6rd\u00fcm. Tahtakale ve Mahmutpa\u015fa. Bu b\u00f6lgeler, benim i\u00e7in bir al\u0131\u015fveri\u015f merkezinden \u00e7ok, tarihe bir yolculuktu.<\/p>\n Burada, Mahmutpa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n o yo\u011fun, kalabal\u0131k ortam\u0131nda, o kadar \u00e7ok esnaf\u0131n oldu\u011fu yerde o d\u00fckkanlara malzemeleri ta\u015f\u0131mak i\u00e7in herhangi bir arac\u0131n i\u015fe yaramad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyordum. Ve bu durum, hamall\u0131\u011f\u0131 hala bir emek\u00e7inin temsili k\u0131l\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n Bir hamal\u0131n yan\u0131ndan ge\u00e7erken durdum. G\u00f6zlerimde R\u0131za Kaptan\u2019\u0131n anlatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 denizdeki m\u00fccadele vard\u0131. Bu adam\u0131n m\u00fccadelesi ise, 21. y\u00fczy\u0131lda tuhaf gelebilirdi, ama tamamen ger\u00e7ekti.<\/p>\n Omuzlar\u0131, ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u00fck\u00fcn \u015feklini alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Bir an i\u00e7in, s\u0131rt\u0131ndaki y\u00fck\u00fcn sadece \u00e7uvallar olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fcm; omuzlad\u0131\u011f\u0131, evine g\u00f6t\u00fcrmek zorunda oldu\u011fu bir hayat m\u00fccadelesiydi. Elindeki bir urganla y\u00fck ta\u015f\u0131maya talip olan insanlar\u0131 izlerken, g\u00fcncel ger\u00e7ekler zihnime vurdu.<\/p>\n Bu emek\u00e7ilerin m\u00fccadelesi, R\u0131za Kaptan\u2019\u0131n zorluklar\u0131n\u0131 bile a\u015fan bir \u00e7\u0131kmazdayd\u0131: Teknoloji geli\u015ftik\u00e7e onlara olan ihtiya\u00e7 azal\u0131yordu. Dahas\u0131, Tahtakale’nin esnaf\u0131, toptan ticaret merkezlerine ta\u015f\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Bu, i\u015flerinin azalmas\u0131 demekti.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Omuzlar\u0131mdaki y\u00fck\u00fc indirmek i\u00e7in sab\u0131rs\u0131zlanan adam, kendi kendine m\u0131r\u0131ldan\u0131yordu: \u201cElimden gelse bug\u00fcn b\u0131rakaca\u011f\u0131m hamall\u0131\u011f\u0131. Ama d\u00f6rt \u00e7ocuk var ve okuyorlar. Onlar bu i\u015fi yapmas\u0131n, okusun, adam olsun istiyorum.\u201d<\/p>\n \u0130\u015fte, eme\u011fin ger\u00e7ek portresi buydu. Tahtakale\u2019de say\u0131lar\u0131 bin civar\u0131nda kalan bu adamlar, kendilerine miras kalan bir i\u015fi, \u00e7ocuklar\u0131na miras b\u0131rakmamak i\u00e7in her g\u00fcn s\u0131rtlar\u0131na a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k y\u00fckl\u00fcyorlard\u0131. R\u0131za Kaptan so\u011fukta denizin i\u00e7inde sava\u015f\u0131yordu; bu adamlar ise teknolojinin ve de\u011fi\u015fen ticaretin s\u0131rtlar\u0131n\u0131 b\u00fckmesine kar\u015f\u0131 sava\u015f\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n \u0130ki M\u00fccadelenin Birle\u015fimi<\/strong><\/p>\n Y\u0131llar sonra Karak\u00f6y\u2019e gitti\u011fimde, her \u015fey de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015fti. Eski bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 ruhu, yerini modern bir binaya b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. P\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l tezg\u00e2hlar, cam vitrinler…<\/p>\n Yeni binada, R\u0131za Kaptan\u2019\u0131 buldum. Ya\u015f\u0131 benden \u00e7ok daha b\u00fcy\u00fck, ama yine de dimdikti.<\/p>\n \u201cR\u0131za Kaptan?\u201d dedim.<\/p>\n Beni tan\u0131d\u0131. \u201cBeyefendi, tak\u0131m elbiseli yabanc\u0131. Sen h\u00e2l\u00e2 buralarda m\u0131s\u0131n?\u201d<\/p>\n Bana denizden yeni \u00e7\u0131kan l\u00fcferi tavsiye etti. L\u00fcfer pi\u015ferken iki eski dost s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile bo\u011faza\u00a0 bakan pencere kenar\u0131ndaki masaya oturup sohbet ettik. Ona Mahmutpa\u015fa\u2019daki hamallar\u0131 sordum. \u201cSen denizdeydin Kaptan. Onlar karan\u0131n zorlu\u011funu \u00e7ekiyor. De\u011fi\u015fen ticaretle i\u015fleri bitiyor. \u00c7ocuklar\u0131 i\u00e7in katlan\u0131yorlar\u201d dedim.<\/p>\n R\u0131za Kaptan, pencereden Galata K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc\u2019ne bakt\u0131. \u201cDenizde de, karada da ayn\u0131 hikaye… Onlar\u0131n omuzlar\u0131nda ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 a\u011f\u0131r y\u00fckle m\u00fccadelesi, benim k\u0131\u015f\u0131n so\u011fukta denizin ortas\u0131nda uyumamamd\u0131. Eskiden buradaki bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131lar barakadan bozma yerlerde sandal \u00fczerinde hizmet veriyorlar\u0131 ancak daha \u00e7ok kazan\u0131yorlard\u0131, \u015fimdi gelirleri \u00e7ok azald\u0131. Yeni yerimiz temiz, d\u00fczenli. Ama buran\u0131n hem eski kazanc\u0131 hem de o eski ruhu kalmad\u0131\u201d dedi.<\/p>\n O, Kumkap\u0131\u2019dan Karak\u00f6y\u2019e kadar uzanan eski bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 k\u00f6y\u00fcn\u00fcn hat\u0131ras\u0131n\u0131 ta\u015f\u0131yordu. Ben ise, onun hikayesini ve Mahmutpa\u015fa\u2019daki bin civar\u0131ndaki hamal\u0131n umutsuz direni\u015fini zihnimde ta\u015f\u0131yordum.<\/p>\n \u0130stanbul, her t\u00fcrl\u00fc dram\u0131, sevinci insanlar\u0131n y\u00fcz \u00e7izgilerinden g\u00f6rebilece\u011finiz tek yerdi. Ve ben, o g\u00fcn iki farkl\u0131 eme\u011fin, iki farkl\u0131 zamanda nas\u0131l ayn\u0131 zorlu\u011fa kar\u015f\u0131 sava\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcm. Karak\u00f6y\u2019de modernle\u015fen bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131lar, Tahtakale\u2019de direnen hamallar…<\/p>\n Eme\u011fin ve emek\u00e7inin resmedildi\u011fi \u0130stanbul portresi, hem denizde hem de karada, m\u00fccadelesi hi\u00e7 bitmeyen bir destand\u0131.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n (*) Bu \u00f6yk\u00fcde kullan\u0131lan foto\u011fraflar Ara G\u00fcler\u2019in \u0130stanbul Foto\u011fraflar\u0131 alb\u00fcm\u00fcnden al\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r<\/em>.<\/em>\u00a0\u00a0 (https:\/\/araguler.net\/istanbulphotos2.html) <\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Benim i\u00e7in \u0130stanbul, her zaman \u0130mparatorluktan Cumhuriyete y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm bir demokrasi yolculu\u011fu gibiydi. Ve bu yolculu\u011fun ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 noktas\u0131, daima Karak\u00f6y\u2019d\u00fc. Yirmi Y\u0131l \u00d6nceki Rastlant\u0131 ve Denizin Tuzu 20 y\u0131l \u00f6nceydi\u2026 Bir toplant\u0131 i\u00e7in \u0130stabul\u2019a gitmi\u015ftim. O sabah, tarihi tramvay istasyonunun kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda, Galata K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc\u2019ne do\u011fru ilerlerken, beni m\u0131knat\u0131s gibi \u00e7eken bir kalabal\u0131k vard\u0131: Per\u015fembe Pazar\u0131. O sala\u015f […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":267,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-261","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-duygular"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/261","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=261"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/261\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/267"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=261"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=261"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=261"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"Hamallar](\"https:\/\/eniyihoca.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/Hamallar-1-238x300.jpg\" "\\"\u0130ki")
Ama bu yolculukta s\u0131rt\u0131 b\u00fck\u00fck bir ger\u00e7ek vard\u0131: Hamall\u0131k sistemi.<\/p>\n